Thirties Style

[Belted and buttoned coats with fur trim], Digital ID 1599824, New York Public LibraryNobody told me there’d be days like these, Strange days indeed, Most peculiar, Mama!
---- John Lennon Nobody Told Me (1984)

Can we find any lessons about the 1930s, a time of global economic depression that ended in a world war, to inform us about our own painfully reminiscent current situation? First of all, despite the woes of that earlier period, people were just as grounded in thinking about fashion as we are now. Many people point to the escapism of the big Hollywood movies of the 30s and their celebration of unending glamour. Even Coco Chanel led the way in the early years of the 30s by popularizing less expensive cotton as a fashion fabric, and slashing the prices on her own designs. Rayon and nylon came into their own in this decade.
 

While women seemed to be draped in more fabric than ever, short sleeves and backless dresses became commonplace. The luxury of fur was another popular preference at this time, undoubtedly helped by Hollywood’s movie stars. Subdued colors also became an established feature, something that seems appropriate for a decade described by one art historian as “the age of anxiety.” Secondly, the exaggerations of the 20s were gone now – flat-chested boyishness replaced by real bosoms and padded shoulders. Curves were back in fashion. And the retail clothing industry made great strides in providing consumers with vital accessories—fashionable odds and ends that helped make an outfit look different and last longer (just like this September’s Vogue issue suggested). If you want a good visual survey of this decade’s accomplishments, look no further than Maria Costantino’s picture book, Fashions of a Decade: the 1930s. I predict that later next year, perhaps by the time of the fall fashion shows, fashion design will do some sort of “acting out” or turn to reactive innovations. Right now, the industry is playing it safe with basics and classics. The influence for a little change may not come from Hollywood films as it did in the 30s—except maybe from indie flicks—but from some other popular culture impetus. You heard it here first!